Jardin, a true garden

Flight to Jardín

Breakfast at 7:30 and then we were ready to leave for Jardín; Uber to the south bus terminal, those that go towards Eje Cafetero, Cali, and other destinations less recommended towards the southern border. It is definitely smaller than the north terminal from which we departed yesterday, but it is surprisingly adjacent to the old airport terminal, now used for short domestic flights. It is located on the lower floor of a shopping center, so we were not sure if we had found it until the last moment when we saw the buses perfectly lined up along the platform. At 8:50, we left in a comfortable vehicle with seats that seem like real armchairs. Despite having booked the first seats, unfortunately, the view is not particularly open as the driver's cabin is separated from passengers by a panel and the windows are covered with a thin adhesive film designed to reduce solar radiation. We cover the 130 km in 4 hours and arrive at the village whose name matches reality: Jardín. We pass through a beautiful area, with gentle slopes and hills interspersed with fields and lush agricultural estates, when at one point we see perfection embodied in the mountains. Cerro Tusa (considered the world's largest natural pyramid), from which even a brief glimpse through the bus window allows you to admire its perfection while we travel along the Rio San Juan. The landscape is lush and well-maintained green lawn as if we were in Trentino, with the backdrop of not overly high mountains. As we approached our destination, the slopes became steeper and we started to see coffee plantations, which sometimes appear abandoned and surrounded by weeds, although they tell us that this is a normal situation within the cultivation cycle. As we have already seen in Sri Lanka and Tanzania, coffee is a particular plant with characteristics that may seem confusing or eccentric: it loves warmth but prefers shade over direct sunlight, so the bushes are mixed with the tallest banana plants, it prefers tropical areas but the higher the altitude, the better the quality; of course, within the temperature limits it likes. Colombian coffee, originating in Africa, was imported by Asian countries and has adapted well to this region, becoming a large-scale cultivation that produces excellent beans, perhaps the best in the world in terms of arabica quality, the most prized variety.

Arrival at Jardín

Jardín is one of those villages that, on its own, doesn't merit a trip, but at the same time, a trip without visiting Jardín is incomplete – it means not experiencing the true heart of Colombia. We are at an altitude of 1,800 meters, in a small town where everyone knows each other and probably live quite well, thanks to tourism and plantations, in an orderly and peaceful setting. Unlike what seemed apparent, it's a location only minimally affected by tourism; after some maneuvering, the bus opens its doors onto a street at the beginning of the town, we take our suitcases and proceed with backpacks on towards the ticket sales point for the bus from Jardín to Riosucio for tomorrow (the only one that we hadn't managed to book in advance). We enter a bar or tavern that, several thousand kilometers north, could comfortably be called a saloon; the manager kindly issues us tickets with handwritten receipts (computers are unnecessary) with our names and seat numbers; while our gaze extends towards the kitchen. We thank him and reach the hotel located right on central square, where the initial doubts about the tranquility of the place are immediately dispelled by the prevailing silence. Remembering the beautiful view of what we had just seen being cooked, we return to the tavern where we order the dish of the day, the sancochoThis is a hearty dish made with beef (a nice piece of boiled meat and one with bones), yuca, potatoes, corn, and plantain, served with white rice and avocado. It's not particularly light, but it represents the perfect welcome to this rural area. It's 2 PM, and at least two walks will be necessary: we start from the central square, which overlooks the semi-Gothic church. Basilica of the Immaculate Conception Facing hedges and flowerbeds interspersed with Christmas decorations, surrounded by houses in vibrant pastel colors and colonial style. Around it, a small, ancient world of elderly people chatting in bars observing the everyday life passing before their eyes, while the wives gather around the front doors of their homes; a truly curious scene from provincial life. We then set off to... Camino de la Herrera, a paved path that leads upwards towards the Waterfall of Love, the crossing over the Volcanes River, the Cave of the Bats (closed), and wonderful views of Jardín and I lush surroundings The sun and clouds alternate harmoniously until some thunder convinces us to return, taking another route to complete a circuit, without neglecting to pause briefly at the viewpoints. The weather doesn't seem to be turning bad, so we decide to cross the country to reach the opposite side and enjoy the view. view from Cristo Rey The observation point is lovely, but the path to reach it requires caution as it is extremely slippery; around it are banana and coffee plantations. The site is closed, but we manage to sneak inside to take a few photos. Another four steps in centre in the late afternoon... where people gather in one of the many bars for pre-dinner drinks and the Christmas decorations are lit up. There is a celebration taking place in the church for the Nativity nine, and the lights enhance the majestic interior. But we need to think about dinner, and not far from the main square (actually everything is close to the main square), we find a restaurant frequented by locals. At some point, we are pleasantly interrupted by two women who put on a short performance with the the sound of their horses' hooves... where the eye even struggles to follow the movement of the legs due to the incredible speed of this dancing motion. Another walk, this time for the view at night confirmed by a cup of hot chocolate, and you can go to sleep.