Cocora Valley

Morning in Valle de Cocora

Wake up at 5:45, a quick and simple breakfast, and we're leaving at 6:30 on a very crowded Willys (we are 13 people, including three standing outside in the back). It takes about half an hour to reach the entrance of the park. Cocora Valley: We purchase the entrance ticket when there are no other travelers around and, in a pleasant, cool environment, we prepare to undertake the so-called circular tour. the sun begins to appear From behind the eastern Andes mountain range, with a cobalt-colored sky above. The path starts to ascend. when we are faced with the famous wax palms, the iconic national tree of Colombia and some of the tallest specimens of its kind, reaching up to 70 meters in height, with the only drawback being that it's difficult to get them properly in photos! They are scattered across grassy areas resembling natural golf courses, so tall that the sun already illuminates their leafy tops while the ground is still shaded, creating interesting effects. These enormous natural pillars planted along the slopes seem to defy the laws of nature; an incredible flexibility allows them to withstand the wind without breaking or falling (it must be thought that the root system is very deep and branched), while the smooth surface of the trunk from which wax is extracted creates another reason for curiosity. In addition to these magnificent trees It's all the surrounding context that makes it feel like paradise, and the absence of people (we'll only see four young men throughout the first part of the journey) solidifies this further. Everything around us becomes increasingly vivid. The sun stretches its rays. Just above the top of the palm trees. The unpaved road deepens into the forest, opening up into a clearing where there is a Finca La Montaña at an altitude of 2,850 meters, a charming chalet decorated with amazing blooms. From here, it begins the descent into the forest, while in the higher Andean peaks, some dense cloud cover begins to appear; the descent is steep but the path is always clear and well-marked with frequent signs describing the animal and plant life: we reach Acaime with the hummingbird reserve and from there we begin our return through the dense high vegetation, along a rapid current The route is not straightforward, with stone steps and a long series of wobbly bridges (they are at least seven) consisting of wooden beams made slippery by moisture and metal ropes; but sometimes you can find some waterfalls in a truly captivating setting. The cloud cover eventually prevails, obscuring the light and adding a sense of the allure of a mysterious, hazy atmosphere: It's wonderful to see both versions, although the first is by far the better one. As always, waking up early allowed us to experience the magic of an unforgettable place, where nature expresses itself at its highest level and human activity has not yet disturbed its harmony. Green fields stretch before us as we prepare to complete the circle, creating a truly remarkable experience.

Meanwhile, the parking area, easily accessible by car, was bustling with all sorts of people, and the playground for young children was in full swing. As we saw in Pijao, we also notice the presence of armed soldiers scattered around; even in this case, there is no sense of danger, but the impression is that they want to avoid any possible risk. Of course, seeing men in camouflage with helmets and rifles doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

A quick look at the trout farm, and we're ready to head back towards Salento. This time it's my turn to stand outside the Willys, but there are no particular problems, just be careful not to get tangled in the low-hanging branches of the trees.

Cocora Valley

Returned with a good appetite, let's go and enjoy a fresh local trout, pan-fried We return to the hostel to retrieve our luggage and plan for the near future when a heavy equatorial rain starts; being in Valle del Cocora at this moment would not be the same experience we had this morning; we are ready to depart again on a Willys bound for Filandia. Before departing, this driver also makes the sign of the cross; it's a 40-minute drive with no comfort options, and we are still sitting on the sides of the back with our luggage in between, and our legs have no room to move. Once we reach the town, known for its coffee production and colonial style with brightly colored houses, we go to book a bus to Pereira at 18:15, leaving our suitcases and backpacks behind. The town seems destined to become the next Salento; currently, tourism-related income is around 45% (the rest comes from coffee cultivation), but once the neighboring town becomes saturated, there are no reasons to think otherwise, and the influx of people already suggests it. Our tour of the town allows us to discover another corner of this rural world, even though the holidays are about to begin and we can see a certain influx. From the square with garden and decorations, church and town hall – just like in all other countries – starts from the so-called "Street of Time Stopped", where there are shops and at the end a great view over hills just a quick bite. Knowing we don't have time for dinner, we settle for an arepa and local cheese (they produce it within the same establishment), accompanied by hot chocolate.

Filandia is located between Salento and Pereira, but a bit further out on the hills towards the west, so we can combine our visits without having to make long journeys. The bus will depart with about twenty minutes late, and this gives us the opportunity to see a real example of cooperation: when it arrives, it unloads passengers and luggage, the driver chats briefly with his colleague who sold us the tickets at the ticket office with a small waiting room, and then we board. Meanwhile, someone arrives and hands him a bag containing dinner for consumption during the journey; the ground staff work hard to get the vehicle back on track as quickly as possible. When it's time, the driver greets his colleagues and friends one by one before starting another trip. We arrive at the Pereira terminal, where we had already been a few days ago. We call an Uber to go to the airport, which is modern and well-equipped, from which we will later depart for the capital.

PEI – BOG 22:45 – 23:42 LA4215 – Flight duration 57'

It's now midnight, let's call a new Uber to go to the hotel; we arrive at the free zone, show our passports, and are allowed to enter. We also conclude another busy day.