Central Mongolia

Morning in Mongolia

This morning, they also come to light the stove in the ger so that we find the environment warm when we wake up. Today there is wind and it's an experience we have been missing. The fresh air quickly turns into cold, and the sky begins to cover. From inside the ger, it seems that there is a large fan outside. The accommodation is very solid and doesn't move at all, even better than a house where the noise from the wind on the windows could be heard. We consider ourselves lucky to have three consecutive days of good weather on Hovsgul Lake is rare. We were able to do this and we tried to make the most of the opportunity offered to us.

We have noticed for a few days how people are free from formalities. They greet cordially when they meet someone, but there is no need for a farewell ritual when parting ways. Nevertheless, you can still have excellent relationships without many formalities. The same goes for giving or receiving something. There are no particular customs; just a simple "thank you," knowing that if someone has given something, it's because they intended to do so, and the expression of gratitude doesn't require many words. Helping each other is a natural thing.

We depart at dawn around 9:10 to reach Khatgal in just over an hour (it's always about 26 km!). We arrive in Mörön after another 100 km of slightly better road. We go to the local market where we come into contact with the daily life of the city residents. The area dedicated to the butcher is particularly interesting, where you can see the sheepskins, from which the lambskin containers and heads are made. They just need to be boiled. Sheep must be at least two years old before being slaughtered; killing an animal before that date is considered a waste. The shops offer little fresh produce, especially long-lasting ones, particularly potatoes (750 T./kg) and onions. Almost all the houses are made of wood with a courtyard attached (hasha).

Traditions and spirituality

We visited the monastery We head to Danzandarjiaa Khiid and have lunch a few dozen kilometers south, along the banks of the Delger River... where we meet French people who were left this morning at the Ger Camp, while they are busy preparing their meals.

During the trip, we had many conversations with Andy: it's interesting to notice how when we tell him that the biggest problem facing our society is actually in the brain – not being able to have solid values – he asks if even religion can no longer represent a comforting refuge for the West. Employees who work pay contributions for retirement and healthcare, while taxes are deducted from their salaries. The main security-related problems are represented by fires that occur in the ger camps. Because they are made of flammable material, sparks caused by stoves can cause disasters. Children also run many risks when near the stove, so they are often kept at a certain distance to avoid contact. In our society, kidnapping would be considered a crime! The firefighters from the capital carry out most of their interventions in the ger camps on the outskirts.

Shine Ider Soum

The name of the next stop is Shine Ider Soum, which translates to young and new, while "soum" stands for district, a subdivision of the aimag, representing the province.

We continue to the Khindavaa pass, located at an altitude of 2350 meters, with a varied landscape of wide valleys that can be considered high plateaus, alternating with hills between 1800/2000 meters. The meadows are very green and dotted with rare white flowers amidst vast herds of animals. Near the village of Shine Ider, along a hill we see a cemetery in the traditional sense, with stones used as tombstones. The weather starts to deteriorate, and it begins to rain in the late afternoon. It's incredible how long the landscape remains extraordinarily photogenic until it rains, with lights acting like spotlights filtering through the clouds. We approach a flower to ask for permission to camp nearby. We are granted permission and set up our tents near an emergency shelter for animals (sheep and goats), consisting of interwoven logs. The interior is covered in all kinds of goat droppings, but it proves very useful when the wind increases and it becomes impossible to eat outside. The cook sets up a kitchen inside. Prepare the Makh.... cutting lamb ribs filled with fat, purchased at the market of Mörön It's the most classic dish of Mongolian tradition. She puts it to boil with potatoes, carrots and onions, while outside the situation gets worse until it rains heavily, obviously from the wind. We are at an altitude of 2065 meters.

Meanwhile, the French also arrive and set up their tents a few hundred meters from us. They received an offer to spend the night in a nomadic tent and declined because they didn't want to cause any disturbance. They will regret it later when their tent is blown away by the wind and rain, but noblesse oblige.

Meanwhile, night falls and we venture out with only candlelight and a flashlight. We had dinner at the restaurant. Improvised with boiled lamb ribs. Once removed from the pot, the cook adds pasta and we enjoy a lamb-flavored soup. You just need to stir it, otherwise the cooled fat forms a thick layer on the surface, making it solid and therefore unpalatable. Perhaps it's not exactly the meal recommended by all dieticians, but in these conditions, it proves particularly useful and appreciated. Given the bad weather, we decide to bring the curtains inside and thus transform the restaurant into a hotel. The aroma, which we have become accustomed to and perhaps even absorbed, is not one of the most sought-after by high society ladies, but the cold outside is much worse. Not that it's warm inside, as we sleep in sleeping bags with blankets, leggings, trousers, and fleece jackets. To finish, I put on a t-shirt just to cover my head and protect the only exposed part. Finally, we remember to… bottle of vodka Bought a few days ago and have kept the jeep on hand for emergencies. This is one, and we'll finish it quickly with some chocolate squares. Despite all these measures, the night passes slowly, with frequent awakenings due to the cold.