Huvsgul I

Morning in Huvsgul

Today we will discover how little water can be enough to wash my face in the morning, when we consume dozens of liters in unnecessary and sometimes harmful daily showers. A small metal container with about 2 liters is attached to a tap from which a stream of water comes out, which, once used, ends up in a bucket and is then removed. Another bucket is used to introduce cold water that can be mixed with some drops of hot water contained in a thermos placed next to it. The staff regularly check the status of the buckets. Surprisingly, only about ½ liter of water may be sufficient for washing my face, while this resource is not fully used for toilet facilities. These are specially created toilets, under which there are containers and everything is covered with sawdust. Although there is plenty of water, since we are located near a lake that is vital for the few brave people who live around it, it is important not to pollute it. Therefore, all waste is removed. Our guesthouse has two beds (but there are larger ones in the campsite, up to 6 places) and It consists of 62 slats. which converge towards the central wheel to form its roof.

A diesel generator is operational from 8 PM to 11 PM, and during this time you can bring electrical appliances to the restaurant area for charging. Otherwise, they use wood for cooking and heating the shower water when the solar panel is not sufficient.

Lake Huvsgul.

Having one day extra compared to the planned schedule, we dedicate it to an excursion in the mountains surrounding the western side of the lake. We venture into the fir forest, paying close attention to the landmarks we had previously identified. Everything is well-organized and dense, so we need to reach the clearing located slightly higher at the exact spot. We locate it perfectly after one hour and ten minutes of walking, and from there begins the real ascent, opening up to landscapes that gradually become increasingly vast. Below us, the lake. show its grandeur, surrounded by stunning lagoons that already secure our afternoon commitments. We reach the crest and the view extends over the side facing inwards, with the Saridag mountain range... as well as the road leading to the territory of the Tsaatan people. The peak we reach with a vertical ascent of 900 meters over 1 hour and 50 minutes is called Hirbist Uul, at an altitude of 2515 meters, and it is the highest point in the area. At the top there is a small ovoo, on which we also place our offering of a stone and walk around clockwise, according to local custom. High up in the sky a hawk soars It keeps a close eye on our movements. But we arrive and leave quietly, without disturbing it. We quickly descend under a clear sun to avoid missing the meal appointment, using a trail that horses used when coming here with clients. The menu includes the necessary documents, but in this case, the needs of tourism require the chef to remove the lamb fat from the meat. While on the nomadic ger yesterday, the fat was a resource against the cold, here they know that sensitive Western palates would not appreciate a mass of fat around the meat. We meet an American researcher who organizes fairs about Genghis Khan. He has just arrived from the Gobi desert and leaves us the contact information for some of his acquaintances who are researching dinosaur bones. If we were to meet them, he would give us his guidance on the latest discoveries in this field.

An hour and a half of well-deserved rest outside our hotel, and we are now ready to set off for explore the lagoon View this morning from above. It's a place that seems specially designed for photographic needs, although the sun occasionally hides behind some passing clouds. A refreshing shower and another moment of rest conclude the day, while a herd of yaks returns from grazing, creating a backdrop with the lake as a stunning background.

Dinner arrived promptly at 7:30 PM. It consisted of meat more like a pressed and baked ragout than a hamburger, topped with mashed potatoes. Talking to our companions, who have a nomadic approach to travel, they asked if we also move furniture when we go hiking in the mountains. No, but given how heavy our backpacks are, it's not far off! Tonight, as always, the moon reflects its light on the lake, taking on increasingly silvery hues as it rises in the sky. A few pages were read by candlelight, and then we enjoyed a good, restful sleep, adding an extra blanket. We were at 1645 meters above sea level, and it was cold. The stove heated up to almost sauna-like temperatures, but soon its effectiveness diminished, and the cold took over.