Tashkent and Khiva

Chorsu Bazaar, Khast Imom Mosque and the Tashkent earthquake

Early in the morning, we were ready to set off and explore more of Tashkent. We walked to the area of Chorsu Bazaar after taking a look at the Madrasa Kulkedash, under renovation, from the outside and inside. Juma Mosque, on Friday, with its spacious interior where a soft carpet allows some men to sleep on the floor, in a way that is not too orthodox for the place we are. We don't know if they are vagabonds, although we haven't seen them around during our trip, or what reason has led them to be there. The domes are majestic both in size and decoration, but we will see even more impressive ones. We discover that in this country, there are no restrictions on entering places of worship, provided that the rules imposed by religion itself are respected. After the period when places of worship were used for civil activities such as storing goods or producing, they occasionally served as museums, from 1991, there has been a significant increase in religious interest, mainly funded by Arab countries seeking followers. Therefore, visiting mosques always results in an experience where the simplicity of the interiors blends with the grandeur of domes and frescoes, as well as huge carpets which cover the entire walkable area. Everything in a setting of splendor that feels newly restored. From the two buildings located on a hill, we descend towards the bazaar, which its enormous dome makes recognizable from afar. Beneath it, butchers display their goods, with prominent cuts of meat and also some beautiful pieces. spice stalls and dairy products, including dried cheese like that found in Mongolia, while vendors were selling nuts They find space in the upper chamber; some varieties, such as grapes, are delicious, while others have colors so pronounced that they appear questionable or, at least, lack genuineness. Outside there is the fruit and vegetable section, similar to ours in terms of variety, except for the large and long melons. The organized chaos that characterizes it is surprising, with a peaceful and quiet flow of sellers and buyers, unlike our local bazaars. Here too, the eyes are drawn to the large trays of dried grapes, but even the famous walnuts are no less impressive. We exit on the opposite side to see the most interesting site: It should be noted that if Bukhara is the historical religious capital of Uzbekistan, Tashkent represents its modern and moderate seat. And it will continue to do so, as construction is underway on a Center of Islamic Civilization: a building of enormous size intended to become much more than just a mosque. The entire complex is located in the Khast Imom area, which we could define as a well-maintained religious quarter and includes the Hazrati Imom Friday Mosque, built by Karimov in 2007, which features a simple style but with a beautiful mihrab and especially three domes that are particularly decorated, especially the central one. Crossing the large square leads to the Madrasa Barak Khan... so the Abu Bakr Kaffal Shoshi Mausoleum and a well-maintained park where you can find very common pine trees, even those we have here. This is also the place with the highest concentration of tourists and pilgrims arriving from other parts of the country, as well as the area with the most shops selling souvenirs, carpets, and anything else that might be considered typical. Initially, we were surprised by how the student cells within the schools had been converted into shops; however, these are not places of worship, even though they are located within buildings connected to religious activities: they are often simply a dozen empty rooms that would otherwise remain empty. Sometimes, however, they are in settings with fine tiles where refrigerator magnets on display aren't the best. It is now midday and, after a few metro stops, a ticket costs 0.15 € and you can travel as much as you like, as long as you don't leave the metro, we return to the hotel to close our bags and leave them at reception; again on the metro north, to... Central Asian Plov Center For lunch, fearing it would be the usual tourist trap with overpriced, typical food served by fast-food restaurants, we were pleasantly surprised. Instead, we only ate plov, and could choose a couple of side dishes, alcoholic drinks weren't available, and the atmosphere for this festive meal was very local. But the dish was delicious, and we discovered why when we watched how it was prepared, while... huge Kazan... large, fixed stoves set on brick bases where wood is burned and rice is cooked mixed with other ingredients. Next to it, you can see the baker pull out the typical loaves that can be seen everywhere, rather than those busy cutting meat and so on. At our latitudes, a cultural tour in the middle of the kitchen would be unthinkable due to the hygiene regulations, but here such strictness does not exist, which is a good thing. We exit as the center is getting crowded during peak hours, and while walking along the enormous TV tower, a distinctive but not beautiful sight. Let's go see it. Minor Mosque, or the White Mosque, recently built in 2014, with its dazzling whiteness, a ceiling that opens into a magnificent dome and an entrance reserved for men. It's hard to explain how such simplicity can translate into beauty. From here, our path leads us along the small stream on a trail towards the center to see the Commemorative Monument to the Earthquake of 1966, when the city was razed to the ground and the regime believed it would celebrate the solidarity of the Union in this way, which saw further arrival of ethnic Russians in the Uzbek Republic. Bronze figures representing human forms were erected to help, build, console, and perform every gesture to assist the unfortunate population, at least according to the mural. We still have time to see the small but well-preserved mausoleums of Kaldirgochbiy. Shaykh Hovendi Tahur and Sheikhantaur in a honeycomb-like palace district; this further enhances the atmosphere of the place where historical figures rest. Another ride on the metro for a brief visit to the Navoiy Park, which is quite neglected, a place with unsettling corners and that should not be visited unless you are in a safe country: here we can see the Parliament, Oliy Majlis, from afar, an unnecessary building that occasionally meets to approve decisions already made within the Presidential Palace, and the Istiklol Palace, of Friendship between peoples, which has a decaying Soviet-style appearance but is acceptable when illuminated at night.

Order, power and facade in Tashkent

As is typical in authoritarian regimes, order reigns supreme: you don't see litter on the ground, the gardens are well-maintained, and there are no petty squabbles around. Tashkent had twelve gates, and with subsequent city expansions, none remain; now the new president has commissioned engineers to excavate, but for the moment, there is no trace of them.

It's time to return to the hotel, collect our belongings, and take a taxi to the airport. The driver, despite being warned in all possible languages by the receptionist, doesn’t understand or seem to know that we need to go to the domestic departures area. As a result, once we arrive at the international departures area, we discover that to get where we want, we need to add another 15 minutes with another taxi: it's not a problem as we have plenty of time and don’t make it an issue. Finally, arriving in the recently renovated Terminal 3 for domestic departures, we take the internal flight to Urgench, which gives us a beautiful night view of the capital. During the trip, we met a friendly guide who speaks Italian well, and we shared the 40-minute journey to Khiva with him. We are in western Uzbekistan, just a few kilometers from the Turkmen border, in an area that would be deserted if it weren't for the fact that we are located in the Amu Darya basin. The hotel is located at the inside the walls (Ichon-Qala) It's very convenient for a late-night stroll; at first, it seems confusing with flashes of light everywhere around the monuments, making you feel like you're in Hollywood. Once your eyes adjust, you appreciate the value of the lighting and begin to admire how it highlights the treasures held within the ancient walls. Khiva was a city on the Silk Road, strategically located away from major urban centers, with a history that wasn't always noble, linked to the slave trade. However, you don't need to view history through a modern lens; life in Central Asia rarely offered pleasures. Exploitation and oppression were commonplace, and when wars came, cities were razed to the ground, while surviving inhabitants were deported and treated as slaves. This wasn't much different elsewhere; perhaps here, even nature made things more difficult.

The tiredness accumulated from exploring Tashkent is literally washed away by the pleasure of discovering new corners. minarets on which the lighthouses climb, the enormous trees of schools They loom over the small people who struggle to get them into the screen of a smartphone, while domes of mosques shine under a clear night sky. Certainly, it wasn't like this in the past: dry lives and a lesser sense of spectacle must have made the city appear very different to the traveler arriving there; but he was not looking for beauty, he was looking for a stopover before resuming his journey across the steppe or buying goods.

First night in Khiva

The family running the small hotel demonstrates such hospitality that we feel even more at home; despite not having a common language, we understand each other perfectly. Where knowledge, goodwill, technological resources, and a little adaptation are lacking, success is guaranteed.