Sterling Hwy

From Homer to the Bear Mountain Trail

We set off again along the Sterling Hwy in reverse. Along the road we see many fireweeds, they are flowers that are also present here and which represent a constant throughout central-southern Alaska. Except that here they are still well flowered and represent a remarkable fuchsia pink stain. They also make good jams.

Bear Mountain Trail, Russian River and Hope

We don't make big stops since it's yesterday's road, but this time, taking Skilak Rd. again, we enter another path, the Bear Mountain Trail of 2.5 km return, which we walk talking continuously to signal our presence to any bears who are in the area. A great landscape opens up below us, with lakes set in the dense vegetation.

Continuing on Sterling Hwy we approach the Russian River, famously rich in salmon. Near the wire ferry that allows numerous fishermen to cross the Kenai River, we meet a nice gentleman with a cigar in his mouth and a white beard who seems to have just stepped out of a film, to whom we ask about the possibilities of meeting bears dedicated to fishing not too closely. With the friendliness typical of the locals he shows us a camping area, from which we can go down towards the Russian River and there with a good chance of finding who we are looking for. But be careful! Bears are not always the gentle animals depicted in comics.

Following his instructions carefully, we find ourselves on a walkway that runs alongside the river, which is actually more similar to a stream whose depth does not exceed half a meter. The water is literally colored red by the salmon, some of them flap their tails in the gesture of laying their eggs, others only show some movement, many are still or on their backs. They have reached their destination and completed their mission, so they lie dead after so much effort and risk taken along the way. A cloud of seagulls in turn tries to bring home the meal by pecking at the salmon carcasses.

Further down we meet some fishermen, who warn us that shortly before they saw a big one brown bear cross the walkway with a nice salmon in your mouth. Exactly what we were looking for: we proceed with caution until, half hidden by the bushes, we see one with its paws soaking in order to get lunch. Being a few meters away from us, we remain motionless, simultaneously gripped by the fear that he will come towards us and the pleasure of seeing the scene. The animal is calm and does not appear at all disturbed by our presence. This is how we start observing it and taking photos of it. At a certain point he goes to look for prey on the other side of the river and we don't mind that at all. The zoom was created for this and even if we are not too close it is still fine. He tries to catch salmon either with his legs or by diving his head under water but without success. Despite its size, its inherent clumsiness prevents it from looting the tired but still elusive fish.

Satisfied with the close encounter but not too close, we return after having imprinted the classic scene that is not missing in any catalog that illustrates the wonders of Alaska: for the series how dreams are transformed into memories. The weather turns bad and it even rains.

A tour for Hope under half the sun, it allows us to take a step back in time. Even though it is not a ghost town, it seems that time has stopped and with it you can breathe a way of life light years away from the frenzy of the West.

Portage, ice and rain

Returning inland we return to find the rain that we had left shortly before and we arrive in the Portage area, it rains heavily and we go to the Begich Boggs Visitor Center. We ask if there are any improvements planned that will allow us to portray these postcard landscapes, a glimpse of sun between tonight and tomorrow morning would be enough. Kindly and almost smilingly they tell us that we really need to be very lucky, since the sun makes its appearance no more than a couple of days a month. The look of compassion testifies that they are not lying. And that we are in the kingdom of water in all its states and this can be seen very clearly. The water of the vast lakes on which the icebergs float, the ice of the frozen fields of the Harding Icefield that descends to the lakes, the rain and the suspended mists.

Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

Let's visit the Wildlife Conservation Centre, a non-profit institution located about ten km from Portage, in a drier area where Turnagain Arm ends. Abandoned wild animals are raised or cared for here (there are two little moose still fed with a bottle) or found injured. It is an opportunity to see the animals encountered during the journey and at the same time meet some that have not been seen before (bison, lynxes, etc.). There are many bison there as a project is underway to reintroduce this animal, therefore a herd in semi-freedom of around fifty animals will be released by 2013.

Although everyone generally has a lot of space and is not confined in cramped cages, it is clear that they are not free just to look at them. They have a humble expression, one might say sad. Very different from that of their "relatives" seen in recent days.

Last sunset on Turnagain Arm

The sky clears again and allows us to see the last sunset over the fjord in one chromatic multitude which has no equal. The sun shines from the west behind the remaining strips of clouds and casts its rays on the water, obtaining a brilliant reflection.

Evening on Turnagain Arm

We reach the accommodation located not far from the bay, the Brown Bear Motel. It is the most spartan we have encountered so far, but not without an ancient charm which according to another interpretation could also be defined as old. Further surprise at dinner time. It's Saturday night and in the nearby restaurant/saloon there's a country band playing. In the middle of the evening we see all those present, singers first, having their photo taken with a beautiful girl who is among the small audience. We will then discover that she is a truck driver who has become famous throughout the USA thanks to a television series that investigates various professions, and that of the lady is certainly not among the simplest.

Driving trucks in Alaska requires many skills to which she also adds a discreet personal charm. At a certain point we are spoiled for choice: on one side the Turnagain Arm with its sunset, on the other the band that sings and plays country music blues, under your teeth the last grilled halibut of this happy Alaskan story. When it's now 11pm we decide that that's enough for today. We have to pack our bags again since tomorrow is the last day. And lounging around would be a crime.