Anchorage Area

Arrival in Anchorage

Although Alaska may seem distant and in fact the ten hour difference in time zone proves it, 8.50 hours is enough. to reach Anchorage from Frankfurt. We head decidedly north along the Norwegian coast, then the Icelandic coast to cross Greenland and reach the Alaskan north passing over Canada. From here a crossing of the whole of Alaska to our destination in the south. A route made of ice and splendid colors, which even from ten thousand meters. at altitude they shine as only the great North can show. The Condor flight is on time, reserving a pleasant surprise for us shortly before arrival, namely the view of the Alaska Range with McKinley which stands out on our left. Not a bad start.

The mountain mentioned in the text as McKinley is today officially called Denali, a traditional name used by the native populations of Alaska. For many years the name “Mount McKinley” was the most widespread on US maps, but “Denali” means “the Great” and is the toponym

Entry into the USA and boot check

During entry checks into the USA they open the bag containing our boots and find them dirty with dirt. We think that showing up in the States with our boots slightly buried could mean at most an infringement of etiquette, but instead they confiscate them temporarily and have them washed in an adjacent room to return them to us after being cordially questioned as to where we had been with those shoes, in order to find out if we were unconscious carriers of seeds at risk. Thus we begin our adventure with boots in perfect order. It all costs us ten minutes of time but we leave the airport with our shoes as good as new. We are in Alaska!!

Curiosity: Why do they check dirty boots at the border?

Curiosity: Why do they check dirty boots at the border?

In the United States, checks on boots, tents and outdoor gear can be very strict because mud, seeds and dirt can carry invasive organisms or plant diseases. It's not just a matter of cleanliness: it's a biosecurity measure to protect local ecosystems, especially in delicate natural areas like those of Alaska.

Eagle River and sockeye salmon

We move to the domestic flight terminal to go to the Alamo where we collect the car, a well-made Chrysler. There is a shuttle that goes from one terminal to another, but we are energetic and go on foot with lots of suitcases in tow. The weather is very changeable, every now and then a few drops fall amidst glimpses of clear sky. Above all we see a certain stability of clouds over the Chugach Mountains, our first destination. We buy drinks and food at a petrol station, since in the next few days there will be very few, if any, commercial establishments.

We're going Eagle River 13 mi from the Glenn Hwy, in the heart of the Chugach Mountains, to go see the sockeye salmon that come to spawn. We cannot go beyond the panoramic point as the Albert Loop Trail is closed due to the risk of encounters with grizzlies, who frequent the area for salmon hunting during this period. The place is worth seeing for the fish but it is not unforgettable.

Curiosity: Why do grizzlies approach rivers during this period?

Curiosity: Why do grizzlies approach rivers during this period?

The text mentions the closure of the path due to the risk of encounters with grizzlies during the salmon run. In late summer, many bears concentrate right along the waterways because salmon represents a fundamental energy source before the cold season. It is one of Alaska's great natural spectacles, but also one of the moments in which the coexistence between man and fauna requires more caution.

Afterwards we visit the Thunder Bird Falls with a 2 mile return walk to see a pleasant waterfall but which can at most represent an opportunity for a trip out of town for the inhabitants of Anchorage.

Eklutna between lake, village and Russian memory

We return to take the Glenn Hwy and go to Eklutna to see theEklutna Lake State Recreation Area, a lake that manages to be beautiful even with the presence of clouds, which mirror themselves and prevent the surrounding mountains and glaciers from doing the same thing. As you get closer to the mountains, the coverage ends up prevailing over the blue sky that characterizes the plain.

You go to Eklutna Village Historical Park, where the Indian cemetery and there are also many graves with Russian names, a clear sign of the past of this area. Above the tombs there are small houses topped by Orthodox crosses, probably to convey the idea of ​​the deceased's new home, a clear symbol of overlap between Indian and Russian customs. What is certain is that in case of fog it would take on the appearance of a sinister place inhabited by ghosts. Nearby is a beautiful wooden Russian Orthodox church (St. Nicholas Church).

Curiosity: Eklutna: meeting between native culture and Russian tradition

Curiosity: Eklutna: meeting between native culture and Russian tradition

The tombs with small wooden structures and Orthodox crosses tell the story of Eklutna well, where the culture of the Dena'ina natives was intertwined with the Russian presence in Alaska. Before the territory was sold to the United States in 1867, Russian influence left churches, surnames, religious symbols and traditions which in some villages merged with local customs giving rise to very particular funerary forms.

A car ride around the Indian village of Eklutna gives us a rather faint idea of the local population. Wooden houses with people intent on doing nothing with many vehicles and appliances rusting in total neglect.

Wasilla and the myth of the Iditarod

With all these commitments we manage to fight sleep well, so much so that we travel to Wasilla, the hometown of Sarah Palin (Republican candidate for vice president of the United States with McCain against Obama). Let's visit theIditarod Race Headquarters, home of the organization for the famous 1,688 km long dog sled race to Nome. In 1925, a diphtheria epidemic broke out in Nome and there was no medical care. Since it was winter, 20 teams of sled dogs set off from Nenana and in 127 hours they managed to deliver the serum that saved the city. The guide dog named Balto became a hero. Those who drive the sled are the mushers, the conductors. In memory of that race against time, a sports race was born which is one of the most followed events in Alaska with strong resonances also in the Lower 48 (the other states that make up the USA). For climatic reasons in recent years the race started from Willow, located further north, but the organization and historical headquarters are based here.

Curiosity: Who were the mushers?

Curiosity: Who were the mushers?

Mushers are the drivers of dog sleds. In Alaska they were not only protagonists of sporting competitions, but for a long time they represented an essential means of transport and communication in the most isolated areas. Their figure has remained central in the Alaskan imagination because it combines technical ability, physical resistance and extreme knowledge of the Arctic environment.

Curiosity: The Iditarod was born from a real race against time

Curiosity: The Iditarod was born from a real race against time

The famous Iditarod is not just a spectacular race: it has its roots in the "serum run" of 1925, when a relay of dog sleds brought anti-diphtheria serum to Nome in the middle of winter. The episode became legendary because it demonstrated how much, in an immense and hostile territory like Alaska, sled dogs could make the difference between life and death.

Curiosity: Balto: the dog who became a legend

Curiosity: Balto: the dog who became a legend

Balto is the most famous name linked to the 1925 serum race. Although he was one of the many dogs involved in the relay, he became the symbol of the enterprise and a true folk hero. His notoriety was so great that a statue was even dedicated to him in New York, in Central Park, transforming him into one of the most famous icons in Alaskan history.

Palmer, dinner and first overnight stay

We move to Palmer in search of a place where we can rest. We find him at the Pioneer Motel, who also recommends a restaurant where we try halibut. Too bad it's not licensed and we have to postpone the first appointment with Alaskan beer. Palmer is an agricultural center with a very particular history. It was born in 1935 from 203 families who came here from Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin due to the consequences of the 1929 crisis by virtue of an experiment that wanted to colonize new northern lands.

Curiosity: Palmer and the agricultural colony of 1935

Curiosity: Palmer and the agricultural colony of 1935

Palmer didn't simply begin as a farming town: it was the result of a federal project initiated during the Great Depression. In 1935, hundreds of families from the American Midwest were moved to Alaska to create a new farming community. The idea was to offer a concrete possibility to families affected by the economic crisis and, at the same time, strengthen human settlement in a remote area.

Evening in Palmer

After dinner we go to see the "outskirts" where prairies bordered by mountains extend. In this place there are the largest vegetable crops in the world. The short summer season accompanied by long hours of light means that agricultural production is particularly rich and vegetables develop more than elsewhere.

Curiosity: Why do huge vegetables grow in Alaska?

Curiosity: Why do huge vegetables grow in Alaska?

The text talks about gigantic vegetables, and that is not an exaggeration. During the Alaskan summer the days are very long and in some areas the light lasts almost without interruptions. Even though the season is short, this prolonged exposure to the sun accelerates photosynthesis and promotes amazing growth of many crops, especially cabbages, pumpkins and potatoes.

We also see many religious buildings. When we return it is 8.30pm, corresponding in Italy to 6.30am the following morning, i.e. Ferragosto. We judge that we have resisted enough for today and we give ourselves a well-deserved rest.

Overnight stay

Palmer – Hotel