Shiraz

Traditions and spirituality

We're trying to see the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, also known as the Pink Mosque, early in the morning to admire the magical stained glass windows that They carry their colors. on the carpets, equally colorful, but clearly we are not the only ones, as many visitors already gather inside the small and cozy interior, looking for photo opportunities.

Visit to Fortezza Arg-e Karim Khan

The fact that the prayer room we are in doesn't have a high ceiling prevents us from cutting out the heads of those present, so we quickly leave without completely enjoying the play of light and the atmosphere that surely results. However, the best view is in winter, when the low sun projects the light from the windows almost onto the inner wall. In the courtyard We are once again guided by a religious figure who shows us the rest of the mosque, providing interesting explanations, such as the theory of colors: the predominant pink color in the ornaments I call Shiraz while Esfahan is nearby. This also depends on the dynasties that have ruled and where they lived. For example, the Zand dynasty used white as their official color. On the walls of the courtyard, our eyes rest on drawings of small churches places that could easily be found in our countryside: we are told how, in the past, people used to draw distant places to inform their followers about what was happening elsewhere in the world. Meeting at 10 am with the guide of the Free Walking Tour at the entrance of the Fortress of Arg-e Karim Khan, located on Shahrdari Square, dating back to the Zand dynasty period. Let's go to the historic market... a labyrinth of narrow streets covered with finely inlaid vaulted ceilings, also dating back to the Zand dynasty. At some point, on one side, a two-story caravanserai opens up, which could be considered the five-star equivalent. The bazaar was part of Shah Karim Khan's plan to turn Shiraz into a commercial center licenses were granted to citizens of low and middle classes so that they could have a business and create wealth. The concession, which still applies today, stipulates that the property cannot be sold. It can be transferred through inheritance; otherwise, it can be rented. While strolling through the bazaar, we are shown some forms of artisanal craftsmanship, for example, decorations made by combining small bundles of copper wire, camel bone, and other materials of different colors, cutting them into sections and attaching them to a sugar bowl, vase, or jewelry box. At this point, they are smoothed and become perfectly shiny. It seems incredible how valuable artistic objects can be produced from what appears to be recycled material. The Bagh-e Naranjestan, a Qajar-era building, named for the many orange trees, was one of the highlights to see and does not disappoint: in addition to the courtyard with water and dreamlike flowers, the interior of the palace is also worthy of a residence where the guests of the rulers stayed. At the entrance you can find depictions of three waiters to welcome, in the gesture of offering water to wash hands and face (those arriving from a long journey needed to refresh themselves after sweating), pears to eat, and tea to drink. Also here, mirrors, mahogany doors Finely inlaid with shells from the Persian Gulf, in a succession of fantastic decorations, perhaps even excessive in the eyes of Western tastes, but certainly eye-catching. An ice cream helps us cool down for a few minutes; the sun is particularly strong today, and we can only imagine what summer is like here.

Museums and memory in Shiraz

Let's exchange some Euros using the convenient "Street Change" service, considering also the continuous devaluation of the Iranian currency, and then continue our trip. Along the pedestrian street, we find a Bagh-e Nazar, still with beautiful flower beds and the Pars Museum, really interesting and definitely worth visiting. We then visit the mausoleum. Aramagh-e Shah-e Cherag and it surprises us how the entrance requires leaving large backpacks and cameras larger than a compact one in the designated storage area, along with a scanner and personal searches. A friendly volunteer explains to us that he will accompany us on the tour, explaining that the mausoleum was previously targeted by threats of possible attacks due to its religious content, which we are not aware of. What remains true, and sounds quite disheartening, is the fact that people are killing each other in the name of the same God. Even in this case The view is stunning., although I couldn't access the most sacred part of the mausoleum reserved for Muslims. As evening approaches, we find it difficult to have an early dinner; fortunately, there is a small restaurant nearby with enclosed spaces (it almost feels like a Japanese restaurant) where we can sit down and have our last meal in Shiraz. Even without wine, getting up from the table and standing after dinner won't be easy. A walk to see the illuminated fortress and listen to an incomprehensible local rock song at a small Saturday night concert. The pedestrian area is bustling with people of all ages, without direction and with the sole aim of spending a quiet evening away from worries about the worsening economic crisis, a new embargo, and other unfavorable news from around the world. One of the four towers that form the top of the fortress is noticeably tilted; we are told that there was a cistern in the underground area, which collapsed several decades ago. They left it as it was and simply repaired the wall. A creative solution that further enhances the charm of Shiraz's center. While we are in the central area, we arrange for a taxi to take us tomorrow morning, which we had left free from commitments, in case there were any unforeseen circumstances. Since everything went smoothly and the return train was rescheduled from 16:00 to 19:00, we can enjoy a day exploring the surroundings of Shiraz.