Trek Kailash I

From Darchen to Dirapuk

No alarm clock is needed to start the day, and from today, no more joking around. The days will no longer be defined by minibus transfers or short training walks. This is the moment when you are face-to-face with yourself and your limitations, and there are no more excuses. In the previous months, I had encouraged my friends to train in order to be prepared for the event, and I had done so myself, arguing that completing the kora in good condition would allow us to fully enjoy its beauty. Now I discover that the careful training I have sought will primarily serve to achieve the goal; the rest is pure academic exercise. Without this base of strength, I would not even have reached Dhirapuk. A quiet breakfast and we separate our luggage: what is not needed for the trek remains in the minibus and will stay in Darchen, while the sleeping bag and anything else unnecessary for the day goes on the truck and will be loaded onto the yaks that we will meet near Sershong. They arrive from a nomadic camp located nearby. A light backpack is put on our shoulders and we set off, after having checked our permits with a miserable man who lives in a tent at the entrance to the trail. In reality, it was possible to cover the first 7 km by motorized means, but our firm intention is to start from Darchen at 9 am with our own legs. The initial flat stretch is surrounded by carved stones... until we arrived at a moderate altitude that we Offers a view of Mount Kailash.. In general, the trail doesn't require particular effort; the entire route of the first day is an uphill and downhill without major difficulties. According to our standards, it would barely be considered a light hiking trip. But starting from 4,670 m and with a body already accustomed to the acclimatization challenges, by the end of the day there will be a total descent of 500 m, reaching an altitude of 4,950 m at Dhirapuk. The weakness starts to become noticeable at an altitude of Tarboche and every step is accompanied by a throbbing headache. Luckily, R.K. stays with me and tells me about the places around here, starting from the open-air cemetery where corpses are dismembered and given to the birds. Yes, because this barren land doesn't even offer its inhabitants a decent rest once they have passed on to another life. The cold that covers it for most of the year prevents burials, Buddhists also believe that burial is a form of pollution, or cremation, there is no wood to burn as in Nepal. So, bodies need to be dissected and the remains given to the birds, including bones which are ground up and mixed with tsampa, a mixture of barley flour and tea. Shortly after we spot our yaks while they arrive and pass us by with a pace that makes us envious.

The Kailash from Dirapuk and the night of waiting.

Next, a terrace opens a new wonderful view... enriched by the Kangnyi tea house. A teahouse where you can enjoy a meal with salty tea and regain some energy, but it's important to leave early before the engine cools down. We are almost at the campsite. In the meantime, our eyes light up at the sight of the west wall of Kailash, and then the majestic south wall that appears in every photo. The sun makes it shine as if it were a huge diamond embedded in the arid rock. A sacred diadem where four religions place their devotion, primarily Buddhism and Hinduism, for which many people are willing to sacrifice. This place is like Mecca for Muslims, with the only difference being that here the stone is white and sparkling instead of black. But the meaning is the same: going there means following the tenets of your own religion. But what does it mean for us? In fact, this year our religion would require visiting more accessible churches in search of holy doors. For us, it must mean reaching a place that we attribute mystical value to; even if we just wanted to go on an excursion, we could have found more comfortable places. Respecting other religions, we cannot help but think of a Supreme Being that moves and performs the task of direction and supervision of the world. I refuse to believe that there are territorial competencies even in this field. I want to believe that it is simply called differently. And so, if we accept this concept, then Kailash also works for us. And above us, it looms like two joined hands. These cathedrals of Nature can make even non-believers think that something not entirely rational may exist and that science can provide an explanation for much, but not everything. I express these concepts while remaining fundamentally secular and skeptical of other manifestations of devotion. A total silence surrounds us, even the stream falls silent, while beneath a layer of ice, it flows without making any sound. Turning to more earthly matters, we also admire our cook who has loaded weapons, luggage, and dishes onto a yak and is preparing his sauces. We will have dinner in local guesthouse, where it's not necessary to be overly concerned with hygiene. But being fussy about cleanliness in this area would be an insult to common sense. The Kailash offers the best. right on our side, perfect and majestic. On the other side, beyond the stream, there is a monastery The renovation is nearing completion. The small room with four beds is an uninsulated container; it's not cold outside, and sleeping would be possible, if only we could manage it. The sky turned overcast in the late afternoon, but it doesn't seem to be turning for the worse; we are just a few hours away from the key milestone: yes or no. Tomorrow we will continue without the yaks; there is still snow nearby, and over the past two days, another thin layer has accumulated. Their hooves could slip, so the sleeping bags and other belongings won't be coming with us. Unfortunately, we will also be without a kitchen and will have to make do with what is offered at Zutulpuk. For now, let's end this difficult but satisfying day: I think that if one day I become old, looking back on these moments, I will realize that I already experienced a moment of aging right here today.