West coast

Day 11

West coast

30/08/2019 1 galleries 0 Maps Africa

The fishermen of Ifaty, a place where time stands still. Returning to Tana.

Madagascar map - complete itinerary · West coast and beach

Toliara

The sun rises and advances, sweeping across everything in its path. We fully experience its arc from the very beginning as we walk along the beach; the sea has now receded, leaving ample space for… sandy area Only a few locals begin to move around, in an enchanting climate where the sea dictates the rhythm of time. A slow flow, for nature and for people, makes it feel like we are living in the past, and perhaps we are. It is difficult to imagine the existence of another world, supposedly evolved, where technology dominates humans and their feelings, where time is no longer measured by seasons but flows always the same, distinguished only by the alternation between work and leisure phases. The tide has left beautiful seashells on the beach.
It's time to have breakfast, while the fishermen are ready to depart. Unlike our latitudes here, fishing is primarily for local consumption or a small surplus. Therefore, The small boats leave the beach. in the morning to take home what I needed for the day. Sales are limited to a few restaurants catering to tourists, but we don't perceive any organization that collects fish and transports it at least as far as Toliara. Refrigerated vehicles are scarce, and there are no industries for processing. From the top of the small hill where we have breakfast, behind a curtain of bougainvillea and other brightly colored plants, we observe the fishermen setting off, carefully avoiding tangling their nets. The boats considered "turbo" have sails, while the others have oarsmen with strong arms. We also join them for a trip in a sailing pirogue to experience the thrill of the sea. The seabed is shallow and sandy, coral reef It's only a few kilometers away, so it feels like you're in an enormous swimming pool. The skill in controlling the sails and thus the wind allows us to reach unbelievable speeds without an engine.

A traditional red and black boat is moored on the light sand of the sea.

After a couple of hours of "navigation," we return to base, as it's now time to depart for the continuation of a day that is much more intense than it initially seemed. But we still have time to stretch our legs on the beach, while the children shower us with requests for sweets or anything else they can think of, including our glasses, in a vision of Vazha not far from what we imagine Santa Claus to be like. The scene evokes more annoyance than embarrassment; what future can they have if the basic concept is begging? There are certainly plenty of people living and passing through these parts; the real poverty lies in this lack of cultural nobility, which parents do not teach them when they are young: expecting something from others is much simpler. And it seems that this is the true backwardness, the equation that relegates a rich country to one of the poorest in the world. Apart from the children, who reiterate the lessons taught by their parents, it is actually the adults who lack initiative. There are many indicators that suggest that even human potential – unlike other countries – would be there, but it simply seems easier not to exploit them. The above obviously does not apply to the disadvantaged areas present everywhere in the world, which here force us to travel ten kilometers to fill a water tank. From tomorrow, the experience will be different in the north.

Transfer to Toliara I decided to have lunch, which was fish-based, a little later than usual and

Madagascar map - complete itinerary · Toliara Airport

heading to the airport, from where we will fly to the capital at 17:30. Everyone advises reaching the departure point in time, even for domestic flights. As a result, two hours before, there is already a queue waiting for check-in. Of course, it's impossible to do this online via app or website; everything is much simpler. What matters most is the safety and punctuality of the flights, which are essential factors given our schedule, and about which we cannot complain within the limits of our experience. There are no electronic terminals. and that manual makes it difficult to provide the information needed for both incoming and outgoing flights. While we are waiting in the small airport We now have time to sort out our thoughts and also plan the days ahead in the northern part of the country. 
Flight TLR – TNR 17:30 – 18:35

Madagascar map - complete itinerary · Antananarivo

Arrival in the capital is punctual, one hour after takeoff, and today we just need to rest for a few more hours at a nice hotel, where the renowned restaurant is mainly frequented by tourists on pleasure trips. We are in the upper part of the city, which is not easy to reach by public transport due to a series of detours caused by the imminent arrival of the Pope; all taxis arriving in the capital have been booked for some time and at least 800,000 people are expected. The rooms feature wooden balconies and have a predominantly colonial-style furnishing; the cuisine is exquisite, but the atmosphere is exclusively geared towards the type of clientele that frequents it. We don't pay much attention to the foreign wildlife and try to go to sleep as soon as possible. Tomorrow morning, breakfast is scheduled for 4:00 AM.

Overnight stay
Hotel Lapasoa – TANA

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