Volcán Santa Ana

Excursion to Mount Santa Ana

Another local bus – today’s destination is Cerro Verde with the 248 – another stop and another destination: Volcán Santa Ana, or Ilamatepec in the local language, in Los Volcanes National Park. Breakfast at 7:00 am, ready to go at 7:30 am, bus arrives at 8:00 am, already quite crowded with local people getting on and off everywhere, while a small group of pale faces – including ours – heads towards the final stop, from where we will begin the hike to the crater's mouth. In addition to those present on the bus, it is interesting to observe the surrounding green landscape; when the road starts to climb along the southern ridge of the caldera that surrounds Lake Coatepeque, the landscape literally becomes spectacular. The view stretches across both sides, but it’s on the right side where, as you ascend, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the lake and the mountains surrounding it. When the ascent becomes more challenging with a series of bends, the old bus, which has already finished its career in North America, roars like a wounded lion, emitting clouds of smoke, but keeps pace slowly without faltering. In an hour and a half we arrive at our destination; we need to take a guide who accompanies the entire group that arrived by bus and pay the entrance ticket to the park. We begin a beautiful walk that, in summary, resembles the one on Mount Kilimanjaro: first, the lush rainforest, then the scrubland where agaves and sparse flowering trees grow, finally, the arid area leading to the summit at 2,381 meters – which is a difference of 500 meters – where the wind blows so strongly that it makes it difficult to stand. My bandana will literally fall off my head.

We need to lean forward to stay upright, but the sight of what lies ahead inspires us to persevere. At the bottom of the crater, there is a lake with crystal-clear water illuminated by the sun, which previous photos do not do justice to. Be careful not to fall into the void due to the poor balance caused by gusts of wind; we try to photograph and admire everything that stands before us. We don't have any difficulty understanding why the explanatory signs are located several dozen meters below the summit, on the edge of the crater. Nearby, sheltered from the wind, there are some armed guards; we were told that until a few years ago, a dollar per person was required to ensure that the group was escorted by armed personnel for defense against any potential troublemakers. Although we have not yet reached a state of complete normality, it is undeniable that there has been a significant improvement compared to the level of risk that existed in the past. The predominantly volcanic terrain features round pebbles on which it is easy to slip. Right in front and slightly lower down is Izalco; both volcanoes are active, but this one erupted for much of the 20th century and is dangerously close to some villages, which on one hand benefit from the fertile land created by past eruptions, while at the same time risk being victims due to its intense activity. In the distance, we can see the Pacific Ocean, which influences weather and vegetation. We return by crossing all the climatic zones we have climbed through, arriving just in time to catch the bus that leaves at 13:30 and barely having time to eat two crackers. The road that winds along the crest of Coatepeque brings us back to Santa Ana after a journey that allows us to see a glimpse of Salvadoran rural society. The cobalt color of the lake blends with the dark green of the forest surrounding it, like the stands of a huge stadium, thus revealing its volcanic origin, while the air is particularly clean due to ocean currents. We enjoy a lively return on a Sunday filled with markets, people meeting up to spend time together, and some taking advantage of the opportunity for a short trip. Even in the city, during the subsequent walk through the center, there is a concert in the central square: the venues are full, street vendors try to attract new customers in a harmonious colorful chaos. We eat again at the same restaurant from yesterday, Ceiba — that is, the national tree of Guatemala and perhaps the entire Central American region. We return early; as always, tomorrow we leave early, and the alarm is set for 4:00 am, with destination Copán, Honduras.