Volcán Pacaya

Excursion to Mount Pacaya

One of the highlights near Antigua is the climb to the Acatenango volcano, which takes two days and requires an overnight stay near the summit to witness the spectacular display from Fuego, located nearby. Since we didn't have enough time, we opted for Pacaya, another volcano that has been very active in recent years. In 2010, it released lava flows towards the villages below, forcing people to take shelter indoors due to the ash until Guatemala City, where crops were burned by the hot ash, causing enormous damage. A couple of years ago, it returned to prominence, limiting the damage to only the crops, although significant. We arrive at an altitude of 1,800 meters by shuttle bus, starting a hike with a 400-meter elevation gain that will take us to the panoramic viewpoint at 2,200 meters; we purchase the entrance ticket and meet our guide who will accompany the group. As already mentioned, the area around Antigua enjoys intense tourist activity, which operators try to make the most of, and this is noticeable even in the small details. In addition, this is justified by a clientele more oriented towards tourism than hiking: upon arrival, we see a group of children renting trekking poles made from branches for $2 each; those who cannot or do not want to climb can rent a horse, etc. In any case, the explanations of the guides are comprehensive, although in terms of beauty, the hike is not comparable to Santa Ana. The weather in the early hours allows for a wonderful view of... volcanoes near Antigua and let you admire an eruption taking place on the restless Fuego; afterwards, fog gathers around Pacaya and the summit is only visible occasionally. However, it's not possible to reach the top, as there are no trails – destroyed by recent lava flows – and probably also for safety reasons. It’s still interesting to see the frozen rivers... still partially steaming from previous eruptions. The magma has filled basins that were created earlier, eventually reaching the areas where crops had been cultivated near the towns. We descend to the other side of the volcano on a moon-like landscape The first part was dusty, and the second part was even more so. During the climb, we couldn't help but notice what appeared to be an unidentified building: it was explained to us that it was a geothermal energy exploitation station Originating from underground, designed, built, and likely financed by Israel. At this point, it is necessary to address the presence of the Jewish state in this area, especially in Guatemala. There is a special connection: on some cars, you can see stickers with the Israeli heart and flag, and the same applies when investments are made in Guatemalan territory. This affection was immediately expressed a few years ago with the relocation of the embassy from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. It seems that similar feelings also exist in El Salvador, where paradoxically, the President is of Palestinian origin. The guide is roasting some marshmallows in a hole dug between the volcanic rocks, essentially creating a small, uninteresting barbecue; in the sky, the fog is taking over, and the Pacaya volcano can only be seen occasionally.

From Antigua to Flores, through the sky.

We return to Antigua for a good grill — definitely more appreciated than the marshmallows offered on Pacaya — considering that we won't have much time for dinner tonight. Around 15:00, a taxi picks us up and we tackle the long climb towards Guatemala City and then to the airport. Just before the layover, we get stuck in a queue apparently due to university elections being held in the area; although we had plenty of time, seeing that we could proceed more quickly on foot, we get out and with some shortcuts arrive at the entrance by walking for a kilometer. Luckily, we are also light, because our ticket allows a maximum of 4 kg of luggage per person — which is more than sufficient for a three-day trip in the hot north. In the meantime, the suitcases can rest at the hotel in Antigua.

We are ready for the domestic flight to Flores, scheduled for 18:40 – exactly ten minutes after the flight to Madrid that we will take next week. We are in the middle of our journey, and it's interesting how, while heading towards boarding for the TAG (Guatemalan) airline, we pass right in front of the Iberia plane, setting a meeting for Wednesday of next week at the same time. A 45-minute flight, peaceful, with wonderful night view of Antigua and the geometry of its illuminated streets that intersect at right angles. Upon arrival in Flores, after a short taxi ride, we reach the center; what they call the center is actually an island on Lake Petén Itzá, connected to the mainland of Santa Elena by a bridge 500 meters long. It's a beautiful setting – it looks like a small town similar to those found in the Mediterranean, but we are in the tropics. Its diameter will be approximately one kilometer, and the central part is slightly hilly, allowing for views of both the lake and the mainland; the streets are paved with cobblestones, and in some cases, pedestrian-only. We immediately go to Hostal Los Amigos where we had booked a transfer and guide for tomorrow to Tikal. The agency office closes at 8:30 PM, but thanks to the punctual flight, we have no difficulty confirming and paying. We take advantage of this to enjoy an ice cream and a crepe as dinner. The atmosphere is charming, with vegetation sprouting everywhere in between the tables, creating the impression of being in the jungle, young clientele, and friendly waiters. They also operate as a hostel, in addition to being a good reference for organizing tours, overnight stays, and catering. All that remains is to reach the hotel located on the other side of the island, where we will stay for two nights, enjoying some well-deserved rest.