Ben Nevis

Ascent to Ben Nevis

The day starts around 6:30 AM with a hearty breakfast at 7:00 AM. Today's plan includes fewer kilometers of driving and a pleasant hike to the summit of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the British Isles. It's only 1344 meters above sea level, but that corresponds to a 1306-meter elevation gain, and it's a mountain with a rather grim reputation for claiming lives. We discover that around ten people die each year attempting to climb it. After seeing what kind of human behavior is exhibited during the attempt, we conclude that the mountain itself isn't as dangerous as the hikers trying to conquer it. Given that this is the most sought-after destination in all of the United Kingdom, potentially every subject of Her Majesty would be tempted to try and reach its summit. Unfortunately, this is true: Ben Nevis often experiences fog or bad weather for nine out of ten days, making navigation with poor visibility very difficult. Even a few meters' error can lead to steep ravines that offer no escape. In particular, during the first snowfall, when the path is covered in snow and the mist descends, it seems like the place becomes a true hell for those who don't know it. Our luck in finding good weather matches our speed of ascent. We depart at 8 AM. From the Ben Nevis Inn, at 10 am we are on a stony square that marks the summit. At the top We find the old observatory and some ruins that were used in the past as shelter. It should be noted that at least 150,000 people attempt the ascent every year.

Descent, lakes and castles towards Inveraray

All the rock formations we see at the top have several moss intrusions, a clear sign that dry days in this place must be very few. The climate is cool but beautifully clear; we certainly aroused the envy of many who have experienced it repeatedly without being able to enjoy such a beautiful day. It's the luck of a beginner British climber; indeed, we feel somewhat inexperienced, at least when it comes to equipment: while our shoes have soles suitable for the terrain, we don't have backpacks. So I carry Bruna's small bag, while she has nothing less than a nylon bag. In any case, we have everything necessary to protect ourselves from a sudden cold snap, even though the weather forecast is clear as the sky above us. We hadn't expected much, being sure that the weather would be bad. As we descend, we see that we are still among the best equipped. Physically, there are no problems and the ascent is literally a walk in the park; it's 16 km altogether: we lack altitude and weight on our shoulders, but today we are going very fast. When we have already reached more than halfway down, we still see people climbing with expressions of fatigue worthy of hell. For many of them, the weight is represented by a significant layer of fat.
The path, in its initial section, goes over a patch of vegetation where there are some sheep. About halfway along, where it borders a lake, the terrain becomes rocky and the path continues on. a street paved with stones Carefully positioned by human hands or more likely, machines guided by those same hands. The descent takes us 2 hours and 20 minutes, as we need to be careful about where we place our feet. The rounded stones represent a constant hazard and can cause slipping. We would rather not try the Mountain Rescue service. At the end of the descent, we stop at the visitor center: in reality, it is mainly a shop where equipment and Ben-related gadgets are sold, more than a proper information center.
We picked up the car to exchange some pounds at the bank and continued towards the smokehouse in Inverawe, but not before stopping at Connel to see the tidal stairs. Here, salmon are processed and smoked. Although the operation of the facility is closed from 4 pm, we manage to peek through the windows, watch the interesting film and see the many brochures available to explain the process. On the road, we see St Conan's church, a a gothic pearl embedded over a blue lake, and the Kilchurn Castle, which can only be seen from the outside as it is practically impossible to get close. It was abandoned after being struck by lightning in the 18th century.

Evening in Inveraray

As the sun sets, we are in Inveraray. where the castle is, one of the most beautiful, is illuminated by the warm evening lights. Everything is now closed, but the exterior is what we were most interested in seeing. The village, with its white houses reflecting on one of the many lakes in the area, is the perfect place to stay overnight, and luckily we find a friendly gentleman who has a spare room for us. The village was built three centuries ago by the Duke of Argyll, who, while renovating the castle and needing workers, had built the houses to accommodate them. This origin gives it a certain appearance that is not rich, but at the same time characteristic and suggestive. To celebrate the day, we indulge in our culinary desires at the George Restaurant, located in the center. The appearance is that of an old tavern, but the clientele are well-dressed people, while the quality of the cuisine is quite different from the famous British style. We enjoy salmon and steak, while for dessert we succumb once again to local temptations and order a sticky toffee pudding With its incredibly rich and buttery flavor. And with this, I've acquired the pass to directly enter Dante's hell for gourmands, when the time comes. In the meantime, I plan to enjoy more of it to fully enter through the main entrance. I sample several local ale varieties, so creamy and pleasant that they melt in your mouth like oil. Indeed, you can appreciate some differences in aroma and color, but there are no major distinctions. Drinking less would certainly help me better distinguish the flavors. With three pints, I feel great and energized, perhaps also due to the climb and the beautiful weather. Certainly not just for that reason.