Dolomites of Friuli

The quick organization of the trip left this area somewhat unexplored in terms of routes and places to visit: there are several interesting sites, but it can be difficult to connect them. We discover that the road leading to Sauris is actually quite good, and even charming thanks to the series of porphyry-paved tunnels that pass through rugged areas.

Reached the Sauris lake, with its waters between green and blue, we decide to cross the dam and go to Passo Pura. A road where it is advisable not to encounter anyone driving in reverse. Now we are above Ampezzo and return to the Tagliamento valley to then draw a circle on the route we just took, only a couple of hours ago. Absolutely nothing boring!

At this point, however, we are going to Sauris, a group of hamlets nestled in an authentic paradise, with wooden structures A dreamlike setting, with attentive people and a focus on order and maintenance. Around the houses there is pile of wood They are arranged in an original and artistic way, with the help of metal arches and window seats on which beautiful flower pots are placed. Skilled hands have also built small houses inside them using twigs and letting their creativity run wild. Above the balconies there are... horizontal bars where the plants were hung to dry. It's easy to imagine what life was like in an era when travel was difficult, and people had a strong sense of community. At the top of the area is one of the historic ham factories, which can be visited by appointment. It seems like an ideal place to live, but we continue on our journey. pleasant walk on high roads that

it will take us to Pesaris, the land of clocks... where the local ingenuity has been producing outstanding pieces for at least four centuries, transforming the inhabited center into a true open-air museum with the most imaginative clocks (16 or 17 pieces). A definitely interesting tour and time well spent (it's really worth saying so). However, first we go to buy Sauris ham cut into thin slices and local mountain cheese aged for 4 months in the local shop, a meal that we enjoy on the steps of the local football pitch. It was just us, and we easily won against the local delicacies. Even here, Vaia has sown destruction and death of trees, leaving the town without electricity for 5 days during the storm.

But time passes quickly, and we have an appointment with the easternmost destination of our trip: the Zoncolan(1,750 mt) with its steep slopes, although we will take the ascent by car rather than by bike. We are in the area of traditional mountain chalets, passing through Ravascletto and tackling the climb from Sutrio to 575 meters (with its beautiful wooden sculptures representing, among other things, some characters from the Nativity scene), the gentlest route of 14 km, which is normally used for descending during the Giro d'Italia stage. Once at the pass, we will ascend to panoramic viewpoint from Monte Tamai via a ski run. Below us, to the south, there is Tagliamento Valley, beautiful dramatic Dolomite rocks on other sides, all the way to see the Austrian glaciers. Some cyclists arrive at the pass, exhausted but also very happy after the extreme climb from Ovaro, approximately 1200 meters to cover in just 10 km; it's understandable our envy and admiration, while we tackled the climb using mechanical means. At this point, it's about descending, and the operation doesn't seem particularly easy. Fortunately, it's already late afternoon, and there are only a few of us still climbing. Immediately narrow and dry turns... then extremely suggestive are the three galleries within which a car barely fits: they are several hundred meters long but being straight, you can see from one end to the other, and anyone still outside is waiting for the other vehicle to exit. As in every winding road, each curve is dedicated to a famous cyclist, whose image stands out and makes the visit even more interesting, perhaps distracting cyclists from the effort! We are now close to the plain, we head towards Venzone, a very special town. It has a rich history, with a beautiful fortified wall, a historic center made of grey stone, and a church with impressive architecture. However, all of this was destroyed in a tragic night on May 6, 1976, when the earthquake leveled the entire area: the photos under the Town Hall show what it looked like before, immediately after the earthquake, and the subsequent reconstruction is truly chilling. Even though technology wasn't as advanced as it is today, the fact that it was a historic town with extensive documentation on its monuments made it possible to rebuild it using the earlier photographs for every detail. It was rebuilt stone by stone, essentially returning the town to its original form. only a few buildings(including a church) that were secured but left as they were, a reminder of the disaster. In any case, in the blocks that have been put back in place, one can see the impacts and suffering experienced, which shows that the past has only gone so far. Some tourists wander around curiously, while locals enjoy a glass of white wine at outdoor bars. A contrast exists between this village, considered one of the most beautiful in Italy, and its surroundings, which are also enriched by... shops selling lavender decorations, a typical product of the area. It's now 6:30 PM, and the GPS guides us along narrow but pleasant streets that run alongside the Tagliamento, while the sun gradually disappears from the horizon; we just make a short stop to see the

Cornino lake

and, in short, we are at Maniago, the city of knives, where our hotel is located on the main square. A stay with a bakery and attached bar, where we discover they also have a restaurant service. And what a service! The chef, a true gastronomy engineer, allows us to appreciate a truly typical cuisine. We enjoy dishes such as a selection of cured meats from Friuli and a cured meat product Outside and inside, we enjoyed pork belly marinated in herbs and slow-cooked in wine. The meal was complemented by slices of cooked sausage and a strudel from the local bakery. A relaxing walk through the bustling city center, with us being particularly sensitive to the heat after several days spent outdoors, but still enjoying the peaceful atmosphere typical of a small town.