Latvia: inland and Riga

Sigulda

Before departing for a vacation, it is customary to receive well wishes from friends and family for a good rest, which also happens to us regularly, but we don't always put it into practice. The lady told us that we would have a family of Estonians and Russians as neighbors on the floor above, so when the alarm goes off at 6 am, we move carefully so as not to disturb those who are still sleeping. A quick breakfast and then we head out along the streets where we only encounter storks looking We enjoyed some delicious food and saw a beautiful fawn. It's Sunday morning, so traffic is almost non-existent for long stretches. We cross the border into Latvia, but the landscape doesn't change much; perhaps the farmhouses are just a little simpler. The only sign indicating we've entered another country are the classic border crossing signs, with no checks or human presence. We arrive at a crossroads on Highway 7: to the left, we go to Plskov in Russia, and to the right, towards Riga. The choice is clear, and after a few dozen kilometers, we reach a wonderful area where the Gauja National Park is located. We first visit Cesis, with the beautiful castle hidden among the leafy trees of the surrounding park. It's interesting, but the visit is quick, as will be that of Ligatne, about twenty kilometers away. Here, the most interesting site isn't so much naturalistic as terribly human: hidden under the false name of Pension, you can find a nuclear shelter right in the middle of the forest. The so-called guesthouse now serves as a rehabilitation center, but the refuge was only discovered in 2003. The Soviets had managed to keep it secret during their period of presence (better to say occupation) in Latvia, and those who knew kept quiet even afterwards. Unfortunately, the guided tour is at 2 PM, and we are only halfway through the morning, so we cannot see the inside, which apparently remains as it was when it was discovered. The only unusual thing is the block of apartments shaped like a rectangular prism, just a few hundred meters away, in an area that should have nothing urban about it.

New Castle of Sigulda

A couple of well-deserved photos at Lake of Ligatne conclude the brief visit. The most interesting area to see is probably that of Sigulda, with its castles and the paths that connect them. We walk across the bridge over the Gauja River to enter a path through the dense forest and mosquitoes, to reach the top of the hill where there is a large but elegant villa currently used as a rehabilitation center (another), from here we go to see what little remains of the castle and descend along beautiful and steep wooden stairs. Unfortunately, Gutman's cave and the museum require time that we don't have to wait at an alternating traffic light due to road paving works; so we go to see the New Castle of Sigulda, located behind which is the older, partially ruined one. The complex is enhanced by a beautiful garden, where we will have lunch with excellent ham purchased in Cesis. Feeling comfortable and enjoying the view and taste, we believe it's time to focus on the capital, Riga.

The urban face of Sigulda

The Latvian capital presents itself as any major urban center on a summer Sunday lunchtime: almost no traffic, some groups of people in the shade or near establishments offering food, and a general sense of tranquility under a warm but well-ventilated sun without heat. In essence, ideal conditions for a sightseeing tour, and we won't be disappointed. First, we take possession of the room at the hotel located on the Daugava River waterfront, very close to the center and with parking available in a guarded area just two minutes from the hotel itself. Everything works perfectly, so that by 3:30 PM (it’s 15:30), we are ready with maps to start our tour. Here too, the human traffic is mainly made up of Latvians (even if they come from other Baltic countries, we would still be able to distinguish them by language and appearance), and a few Western-style foreigners. A real shame for a city and a day worth visiting, but Covid and its bureaucratic consequences have kept mass tourism at bay. Better for us, who have more space to move around, even though Riga is less concentrated in its historic core compared to Tallinn, with the disadvantage that there are more kilometers to walk on foot. The Town Hall Square represents the ideal starting point for a long walk, here you can find a concentration of buildings with different and sometimes contrasting architectural features: City Hall, the recently and beautifully restored Black Heads House (a remarkable construction in the north) with the Christmas tree monument facing it, which is believed to have originated in the building itself, as well as some square and grey buildings of clear Soviet style. Just beyond is the castle (nothing special), the Riga Lutheran Cathedral with the Stock Exchange Art Museum, and the group of historical buildings known as the... Three Brothers and the Catholic Cathedral of San Giacomo, which we also visit inside. Further on, Torna Iela runs between the Swedish Gate and the Jacob's Barracks on one side and the City Walls on the other, two historical moments along the same street, at the end of which is located the Tower of Dust. A brief stop to see the Cat House, with its particular history linked to the feline that sits on top of the roof. We return to our original route and walk through the beautiful park surrounding the Pisletas Canal, a waterway where all kinds of small boats come and go. While the younger ones enjoy the shade, we continue to move away from the historic center to admire the Stockholm School of Economics and Alberta Iela, a relatively short street with buildings decorated in the style of... Art Nouveau. Except for one building that still bears the marks of the environmental, cultural, and mental pollution of the Soviet period, all the others have been recently restored and form a pearl necklace Nestled one after another, with colors and especially decorations that constantly draw the "observer's" attention upwards. It is interesting to look up at the richly decorated walls of the various buildings, reading and discovering the history they have to tell through the scenes and characters depicted. The style – incomprehensibly for ordinary people like us – portrays frightened faces and at least unsettling scenes. Nevertheless, the overall picture is fascinating and extends beyond this street, appearing throughout the city, even on dilapidated buildings, which is a real shame. After all, Riga is the renowned city for Art Nouveau (or Jugenstil, as you prefer). The Latvian National Museum of Art and the Art Academy introduce us to another urban park, Esplanade, where we visit the interior of the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral and to reach the monument that the residents of Riga value most, the tall column representing the Statue of Liberty, earned through immense sacrifices for two times during the last century and a landmark during the Soviet era of domination. Not far away on the same road, the Brivibas Street... instead, you'll find the Palazzo d'Angolo, with its beautiful forms and decorations, but also with a terrible history as the headquarters of the local KGB. Stopping briefly, one thinks of all the innocent or simply free-thinking people who passed through that door, destined for Siberia, re-education camps, or even execution. Fortunately, the spirit is lifted by visiting the S. Gertrude Old Church, where services are held and when we enter, a solemn music accompanied by delicate female voices entertains us for several minutes in ecstatic contemplation. The tiredness begins to set in, so with one last long walk, we return to the streets of the old town to see the audacious Lutheran Church of St. Peter, the Church of St. John, and the beautiful monument dedicated to... Four Musicians of Bremen, a wonderful fairy tale by the Brothers Grimm, and also the ancient surrounding walls.

Several restaurants specializing in Latvian cuisine have been closed, and in some cases even demolished. Fortunately, we find what we need right here and enjoy a delicious meal (lamb shank, duck breast, and pavlova as dessert), accompanied by high-quality beers and cider. Although the sky remains blue, it is getting late, and we must return to the hotel to watch the final of the European Football Championships, which start at 10 pm local time. For your information – and it's good news – it will end with Italy's victory over England, with the only downside being the extra time and penalties that will keep us up until midnight when we are scheduled to wake up early the next day. However, there is a wonderful memory of commentary in Latvian!

Before the match, we went up to the eighth floor of the hotel where there is a restaurant, but mainly a wonderful view of the Daugava River at the exact moment when the The sun is setting.

From the visit, we get the impression of a beautiful and different city from Tallinn, which is more concentrated in its historical center, while interest in the Latvian capital also extends to some nearby neighborhoods, thanks especially to the Art Nouveau buildings, which force you to walk with your head constantly looking up. Perhaps the medieval aspects are more appealing than a style that dates back to the early 1900s, but Riga fascinates due to a skillful mix of styles that history has wanted to overlay in various eras. In particular, in Latvia, we see delays in restoration work, which is perfectly understandable as 30 years is nothing compared to what the city has to offer. The series of well-maintained parks that stretches along the canal represents another highlight of Riga.