Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales

Having already visited Punta Arenas, we head directly to Puerto Natales to discover the beauty of Paine. In reality, the plan included a visit to the Pinguinera de Seno Otway. We were misled by the directions that indicated the site was 70 km north of Punta Arenas, when in fact it was only 30 km north until the turnoff, plus another 38 km on unpaved road westwards which led to the destination. The fact that we had already seen them near Ushuaia and the long stretch of gravel road made us decide not to return and instead seek exploration around Puerto Natales. Before reaching this beautiful village nestled in a bay that extends between numerous islands, we encounter a large flock of pink flamingos and the skin of an armadillo, followed by a group of sheep grazing inside a fenced area. It's interesting to notice how they are different colors from each other. We easily find Casa Cecilia, a well-rated hostel where the Swiss Werner, married to the Chilean Cecilia, offers good tourist support along with excellent service. Although not a palace, the value for money is good. Perhaps we were expecting something more, given the reviews of the guides who considered it lucky to be able to get a room and advised booking well in advance. Even though this isn't everything, it remains a highly recommended accommodation.

It's lunchtime and we are trying out a delicious Chilean-style pizza. I wouldn't necessarily travel all the way from Italy just to eat it again, but the experience is still worthwhile.

Cueva Milodon

We are heading to the National Monument. Cueva Milodon (Milodonte), 25 km north of the town. This is where the almost intact remains of a prehistoric animal, similar to a bear ancestor, were found, dating back over 10,000 years ago. The cave must have been very welcoming for animals and people who lived here in the past and did not have another home. A small tribe could also have lived there. This is an ideal opportunity for a walk beyond the cave to reach a viewpoint located in a prominent position from which you can enjoy a wonderful view of the fjords. Still not completely satisfied with the already beautiful view, we climb further up steep slopes for about ten minutes and reach the top of a plateau from which we enjoy an even better view. In the distance, we can see snow-capped peaks that hint at the Paine National Park. But to do this, we have to wait until tomorrow. We go back to admire the inlet of the Puerto Prat ranch from above. On the arid terrain, the Blooming of Notro, a shrub with vibrant red flowers and mottled green leaves that contrasts with the steppe vegetation.

The urban face of Puerto Natales

Finally, some moments of relative peace and quiet at Puerto Natales, although we need to prepare the tour for the next few days in the park. We therefore book tickets for tomorrow's ferry and study how to spend the two days dedicated to Paine. At the tourist center, they provide us with some valuable advice, but above all, they tell us that the weather forecast is good. This is enough to generate enthusiasm and put aside any remaining fatigue. As for tiredness, we will try to find a solution later, now we must take advantage of the opportunity offered to us.

Dinner was in a typical countryside style at Asador Patagonico (a true institution), where our mouths were delighted by the… a barbecue reservation during the insightful reconnaissance trip taken shortly after lunch.

Luckily we had booked the dish in advance and arrived early, because it disappears very quickly.

Trying it reveals why. Even here, the meat isn't particularly tender, but the flavor is exceptional.